Rhinestones, ‘Black Diamonds,’ and the Bold Legacy of Albert Weiss

We recently had the pleasure of finding some beautiful vintage costume jewelry in an estate sale and the Weiss pins were absolutely gorgeous!  I thought our readers might enjoy a brief history of these glittering jewels of yesteryear:

In the glittering canyons of the 1950s Jewelry District, one man dared to ask a question that bordered on sacrilege: “Why do you want diamonds when there is Albert Weiss?”

It was a bold claim, but for the women of mid-century America, it was an easy sell. Today, while the storefronts have changed and the manufacturing hubs in Rhode Island and France have long since cooled their furnaces, the name Weiss is experiencing a thunderous revival. What was once dismissed as “costume” jewelry has ascended to the ranks of the “rare and precious,” with collectors driving prices to unprecedented heights.

The story of Weiss Jewelry is a quintessential masterclass in American grit. Albert Weiss, a college dropout who traded an accounting degree for an apprenticeship at the legendary Coro Jewelry, didn’t just learn the trade; he mastered its soul. After a stint managing the Grad and Schrager Jewelry House, Weiss struck out on his own in 1942.

While competitors moved toward mass production, Weiss bet on the human touch. He hired only those who specialized in handcrafted pieces, ensuring every brooch and bracelet possessed a level of detail that mimicked fine jewelry. The result? A wildfire of demand that saw the brand expand across the Atlantic to Germany and France.

Weiss wasn’t just a craftsman; he was a chemist of color. He became a pioneer in the 1950s by utilizing Swarovski’s “Aurora Borealis” crystals—multicolored stones known as ‘Polar Lights’—developed in collaboration with Christian Dior.

He didn’t stop at sparkle. Weiss redefined the era’s palette with “black diamonds” (smoky rhinestones) and expert “Japanning”—a technique of applying heavy black lacquer to make colors pop. From the “knock-em-dead” synthetic diamond earrings of the 60s to the whimsical white enamel floral brooches of the early 70s, the brand was a chameleon of style.

Like many family dynasties, the end came quickly. In 1969, Albert handed the reins to his son, Michael. Beset by shifting fashions and financial headwinds, the company folded just two years later in 1971.

However, the closing of the factory doors was merely the beginning of the Weiss legend.

“Most early designs are bold, sculptural pieces of art,” says one vintage enthusiast. “But the later iterations are so timeless you can wear them with a white t-shirt and jeans today.” Among the most hunted items on the secondary market are the iconic Christmas tree brooches and the 1950s pin-pendants, which offer a versatility rarely seen in modern fast-fashion.

For those scouring estate sales or Etsy’s vintage archives, experts warn that “doing your due diligence” is key. Because Weiss’s hallmarks changed frequently, a piece’s signature acts as a carbon date:

• 1942: Look for “WEISS” in block letters or a graceful script.
• 1950: The rare “AW Co” mark, featuring a crown over a large ‘W.’
• 1951 onward: The addition of the copyright symbol.

While a standard brooch might start at a modest $40, the rare “black diamond” collections can command a king’s ransom. In a world of disposable trends, Albert Weiss’s defiance remains his greatest legacy. Diamonds may be forever, but a Weiss rhinestone is a piece of history you can actually wear.  Happy Collecting!