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Can you believe that Christmas is only a few weeks away? As the season approaches, many of you will be thinking of ways to brighten your interiorscapes. One of the best ways is with the use of flowering plants. The first plant that comes to mind is the poinsettia — and rightly so — since it is the king of all Christmas plants. But there are others we would do well to consider, namely Christmas cactus, Norfolk Island Pine and the spectacular amaryllis.

This week we feature the amaryllis (genus Hippeastrum). Ordinarily a spring-flowering tropical bulb, this showy bloomer brightens up any room when forced to bloom indoors. Incidentally, in the forcing process, no cold period is required for these bulbs as is required for tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and others. Amaryllises typically bloom four to six weeks after they are potted.

Amaryllises grow from large bulbs, some nearly as big as a grapefruit and weighing more than a pound. The larger the bulb, the more expensive they are, and the larger the flowers they produce. Typically, blooms are eight to 10 inches across; the plant produces three or four flowers at a time atop each thick one- to two-foot stem. Usually, just as the first flowers fade, the bulb sends up a second flower stalk. Some bulbs are identified by color only — white, pink, red, orange or striped. These are not as hardy or large or as long-lasting as the vegetatively propagated ones, with names such as Appleblossom, Beautiful Lady, Fire Dance, Scarlet Admiral, Red Lion, Prince Carnival, Minerva, Picotee and White Giant.

When potting amaryllises, remember that they love tight quarters. If the pot is too big, you’ll likely get nice leaves but no flowers. It is best to use a pot that is about two inches larger in diameter than the bulb. The bulb itself should be left about half way out of the soil. The roots grow from the base of the bulb. Fill the pot with a well-drained soil mix and then water. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom.

The first sign of growth is the flower bud itself — the leaves don’t usually develop until the flowers are opening. Once the large, tear-shaped flower bud is visible, the plant should receive a feeding once a month, enough water to keep the soil barely moist, at least three to four hours of sun, and temperatures in the 70s during the day and in the 60s at night if possible. Turn the pot each day to keep the flower stalk growing straight.

After flowering, the plant will still need attention, for it is during the months after flowering that the bulbs revive themselves and store up energy for next year’s show. Keep the plants on a sunny window sill until the weather is warm enough to set them outside. While out for the summer, keep watering and fertilizing as usual.

Early in the fall, the leaves begin to turn yellow. This is the plant’s way of saying it is time for a rest. Don’t water them at all for at least a month, and put them in a spot where they are sure not to freeze. Cut off the yellow leaves next to the bulb. After a month, restart the next bloom period by watering and adding a spoonful of bone meal.

Amaryllis bulbs should be left in the same pot for three or four years, but no longer. The little offset bulbs that grow alongside the mother bulb can be potted up separately. They will bloom after a couple of years.

If you would like a spectacular show in your home during Christmas, visit your local nursery or garden center and get started! You’ll be glad you did!

Tim Lewis is a Georgia Green Industry Association Certified Plant Professional, gardening writer, former Perry High School horticulture instructor, and former horticulturalist at Henderson Village and Houston Springs. He and his wife, Susan, own and operate Lewis Farms Nursery located on Hwy 26 two miles east of Elko, where he was born and raised. He can be reached at 478-954-1507 or timlewis1@windstream.net.