Sparkling through wartime: The glamorous tale of Kramer Jewelry

We are currently working on an estate sale that has some beautiful vintage costume jewelery and one of the makers is Kramer. I thought our readers would enjoy hearing the history of this amazing company.

In the midst of World War II, while the world grappled with uncertainty, a beacon of artistry and sparkle emerged in the bustling metropolis of New York City. It was 1943 when Louis Kramer, a visionary with an eye for beauty, founded Kramer Jewelry Creations. Little did he know that his venture, crafting intricate pieces from humble materials like gilt metal, rhinestones, glass, and enamel, would leave an indelible mark on the world of costume jewelry.

Soon, Louis’s brothers, Morris and Harry, joined his endeavor, recognizing the burgeoning appetite for dazzling yet accessible adornments. Every facet of their operation remained rooted in the energy of New York City, a testament proudly displayed on their creations with the simple yet elegant markings: “Kramer,” “Kramer N.Y.,” or “Kramer of New York.”

Louis Kramer himself was deeply involved in the creative process, personally overseeing the design and ensuring the impeccable quality of each piece. His artistic flair shone brightly in the company’s most exuberant designs, often featuring breathtaking parures. A clear passion for the natural world permeated his work, with a particular fondness for flowers. Delicate brooches bloomed with colored enamel or gilt petals and leaves, some even boasting rhinestones set in playfully “trembling” centers, adding a touch of whimsical movement. Beyond florals, Kramer’s creations sparkled with vibrant rhinestones in rich hues of blue, red, and topaz, alongside striking geometric patterns and charming animal figures.

The landscape of fashion shifted dramatically in 1947 with Christian Dior’s introduction of his revolutionary “New Look”—a celebration of exaggerated femininity and romantic silhouettes. Dior embraced the allure of showy costume jewelry, utilizing opulent amounts of faux gems, including the dazzling brilliance of Swarovski crystals. It was a perfect match for Kramer’s dedication to craftsmanship and glamorous aesthetics.

In the 1950s and ’60s, a prestigious partnership blossomed. Kramer was tapped to produce exclusive costume jewelry for the House of Dior. These coveted pieces, bearing the distinguished marks “Christian Dior by Kramer,” “Dior by Kramer,” or “Kramer for Dior,” elevated the company’s reputation to new heights.

Kramer’s ornate Dior creations were a symphony of elegance, featuring cascading Swarovski aurora borealis crystals that shimmered with an ethereal glow, delicate petal-shaped pastes, and lustrous baroque faux pearls. They built upon the company’s inherent obsession with meticulous craftsmanship and organic, romantic design, achieving a level of sophistication rarely seen in costume jewelry.

Despite the fruitful collaboration with Dior, the changing tides of fashion eventually led to Kramer closing its doors in the 1970s. However, the legacy of Kramer Jewelry Creations endures. Today, their exquisite pieces, particularly the complete parures produced for Dior, are highly sought after by collectors, testaments to the enduring beauty and artistry that bloomed in a New York City workshop during a time of global upheaval. These sparkling relics serve as a reminder that even in the most challenging of times, the human spirit’s desire for beauty and adornment continues to shine.