Growing cole crops – Part 1

Early spring is beckoning and that means it is time to plant the early spring garden. There are several crops which can be successfully grown now. Many of these fall within the family of plants known as Brassicas. Today I would like to share with you some of the characteristics of this clan.  

Known collectively as cole crops, these tasty garden favorites include cabbage, kale, collards, cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts. Cole crops probably originated in the Mediterranean area, with kale probably the first type to be cultivated some 2,000 years ago. 

By the fifteenth century, Europeans were reportedly already growing kohlrabi and cauliflower. Broccoli came along later and was raised almost exclusively in Italy, while Brussels sprouts were developed in Belgium in the mid-eighteenth century. 

As a group, cole crops tend to be high in vitamins and very low in calories. For example, one stalk of cooked broccoli will provide more than your daily vitamin A allowance, nearly four times your vitamin C requirement, one third of the required riboflavin, and 15 percent of your necessary vitamin B-6, all for only 47 calories! All cole crops are loaded with vitamin C, especially when eaten raw.

How cole crops grow is worthy of our attention. All of them start out as seedlings with a pair of heart-shaped leaves (cotyledons), and at this early stage, look identical. Later, as the true leaves appear, some differences, mainly in leaf color and shape, can be detected. 

Fairly early in the growth of a cole crop (think cabbage and cauliflower), the outer leaves develop into nutrient storage areas. During this stage, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium from the soil are stored within the outer leaves. It is very important to grow cole crops in a fertile soil and feed them well, especially with nitrogen, from the very beginning, or the crops will likely be very puny. Even a dose of fast-acting nitrogen given at the time the final crop is developing won’t help. It will be too late. 

Another cole crop basic involves transplanting the young plants. When it comes time to transplant the seedlings don’t be alarmed if their long, thin taproots are slightly damaged. While most tap-rooted plants are set back considerably if the root is injured during transplanting, this is not true of cole crops because their taproot eventually becomes a fibrous root system. And while cabbage roots can extend several feet deep, 70 to 80 percent of them are concentrated in the top 8 to 12 inches of the soil. For best results, plant seedlings deeply-up to the cotyledons. 

The roots of cole crops are not as efficient as the roots of crops such as tomatoes or squash and thus need evenly moist soil to function at their best. In the same garden, the tomatoes, squash, and potatoes may be thriving while the cole crops appear to be dying of thirst. Keep this in mind, and watch them so that they never become water-stressed. 

While each cole crop has its own particular issues, most pests and diseases are shared by the whole group. I suppose the most persistent problem you will encounter is the barrage of various species of caterpillars, cabbage loopers being the most common of these. These pesky invaders love to try to get a taste of the young, tender foliage well before you do. 

Fortunately, there are some very effective measures that can aid in controlling caterpillars. We will explore these next time. 

Tim Lewis is a Georgia Green Industry Association Certified Plant Professional, gardening writer, and former Perry High School horticulture instructor. He can be reached at (478)954-1507 or timlewis1@windstream.net.