Coaxing branches to bloom during the winter

It looks as though winter will be soon behind us, judging

from the recent Groundhog Day festivities. The daffodils have been blooming

since late January as they usually do. Average temps have been relatively high,

making for some mighty nice outside work days.

I’m betting we will have some more cold weather yet,

however. Until the warmer spring conditions arrive to stay, there is one thing we

can do to help add sunshine to those gloomy winter days that are sure to come.

Branches from many spring-flowering shrubs and trees can be cut

and forced into bloom now. Once their dormancy requirements have been satisfied

by the winter cold, these branches can be coaxed into blooming indoors without

much difficulty. With the proper treatment they can be forced into bloom

earlier than normal. Provided with adequate light and proper temperatures,

along with proper conditioning in water, they will flower in five days to two

weeks after cutting.

We can, of course, experiment with whatever we have growing

in our yard. Some to try include: azalea, beautybush, crabapple, forsythia,

quince, magnolia, pussy willow, redbud, serviceberry, spirea, witch hazel and

fruit trees such as peaches, apples, cherries and pears.

Some plants, such as forsythia and quince, are very easy to force,

while those which bloom later, such as viburnum and lilac, are much more

difficult. The latter are best cut close to their regular flowering time.

February is a good month to force many of the earlier flowering specimens.

March is better for the later flowering ones.

By the time winter arrives, the flower buds are already

formed on trees and shrubs, but a period of dormancy is required before they

will bloom. Plants differ in the degree of chilling, moisture, light, and

warmth necessary to stimulate the spring flower buds. By February in most years,

winter temperatures have satisfied the flower buds’ dormancy requirement. Once

that’s done, all you have to do is duplicate spring conditions.

Choose a mild day to cut branches and try to cut them during

the warmest part of the day when the buds are filled with moisture. Choose

branches that are well budded and have interesting curves. Be sure to follow

good pruning practices and prune to maintain the natural shape of the plant.

Allow the flowers to develop slowly to encourage large

blooms with good color. First, mash the bottom inch or two of the stems with a

hammer and place in water. Add a floral preservative or sugar with a drop or

two of bleach. Bleach serves to kill would-be harmful bacteria. Change the

water every four or five days during the forcing period. Leave the branches in

a cool, dark spot until bud swell begins, then move them into a well-lighted

area to encourage the flower color to develop. Do not place the branches in

direct sunlight.

Following the aforementioned practices extends the life of

the branches by reducing the number of bacteria in the water, thus keeping the

stems unclogged. Keeping room conditions cool will allow the buds to develop

slowly and maintain flower color. When color first appears in the flower bud it

is time to arrange the branches in containers. Do not wait until the blossoms

are fully opened.

 

Following are cutting and forcing times and vase lives for a

few of the more commonly forced shrubs and trees.

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