Camellias

The camellia (Camellia japonica) is a stately specimen plant in many southern landscapes. Camellias are quite popular in the central Georgia area. Following are some important aspects of camellia care:

• Camellias grow best in year-round partially shaded areas. A northern exposure under tall trees is best. An open southern site is least desirable.

• Camellias are shallow-rooted and are thus susceptible to drought. Neither will they tolerate poorly drained soils. Do not plant them in low places where water collects. Evidence of this is a gradual decline in plant vigor due to root system deterioration from lack of oxygen.

• Camellias can be planted any time of year as long as they are cared for properly. If warm season planting is necessary, water the plants regularly and thoroughly as they become established.

• When planting two or more camellias in an area, plant them in a well-prepared bed rather than in individual holes. Cultivate the soil 8-10 inches deep to encourage good root growth. Plant camellias in holes at least two times wider and no deeper than the root ball.

• Water to eliminate air pockets. Place a 3-inch layer of pine straw, pine bark or other mulch to maintain uniform soil moisture and reduce weeds. When watering larger camellias, wet the soil to a depth of 15-18 inches once a week when rain is not sufficient. Apply slowly to minimize runoff.

• Camellias are not heavy feeders. One teaspoon per foot of plant height applied in March, May and July is sufficient. Extend the fertilizer several inches beyond the drip line where feeder roots reach. A special camellia fertilizer, which acidifies the soil, is best. Slow-release types are also satisfactory. It is not necessary to remove the mulch when fertilizing if watered afterward.

• Pruning is usually not necessary for nicely shaped camellia bushes, but it can help young plants that are not compact. Prune after blooming or in late May or early June. Pinch out the tips of vigorous shoots to stimulate branching. Remove terminal (end) buds from vigorous shoots after they become visible in the spring. This forces the lower buds remaining to send out shoots, which become flowering branches and helps the plant produce a nice limb structure. Remove small non-flowering branches, 2-4 inches in length, in the interior of the camellia bush to increase air circulation and thus discourage tea scale, the major camellia pest (see below). Prune overgrown plants in late February to mid-March. Cut the main stems back to 12-18 inches above the ground. Bushes cut back higher than this usually fail to fill out near the ground and are not as attractive as those pruned closer to the ground. New shoots will be crowded and can be thinned in summer to encourage proper branching. Pinch them off as soon as they become 10-12 inches long to promote additional branching.

• Be on the lookout for camellia scale insects. Yellow mottled leaves often indicate a scale problem. Scales, which suck the sap from infested leaves, can weaken plants severely if not dealt with. Spray plants now with a refined oil or a systemic such as Cygon (dimethoate). Spray more than once if scale populations persist.

Good luck with your camellias.

Tim Lewis is a Georgia Green Industry Association certified plant professional, gardening writer, former Perry High School horticulture instructor and former horticulturalist at Henderson Village and Houston Springs. He and his wife, Susan, own and operate Lewis Farms Nursery located on Highway 26, two miles east of Elko, where he was born and raised. He can be reached at (478) 954-1507 or timlewis@windstream.net and at LewisFarmsNursery.com.

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